College

How much should we save for college?

Last reviewed August 30, 2026 · Relevant for ages 3 to 18

Quick answer

Decide what share you intend to cover before you pick a number, because "all of it" and "a third of it" are completely different savings plans. A widely used rule of thumb is to aim for roughly a third from savings, a third from current income while they study, and a third from aid, work, or loans. Starting early matters far more than starting big: money invested when your child is three has fifteen years to grow, and money saved at sixteen has almost none.

What to consider

Published price is not what most families pay
Sticker prices and net prices differ substantially once grants and scholarships are counted. Planning against the published figure overstates what you need.
What share you intend to fund
This single decision drives everything else. Say it out loud, and ideally say it to your child before they build expectations.
Time, not amount, is the lever
Regular small contributions started early beat large contributions started late, because of compounding.
Your own retirement comes first
There are loans for study and none for retirement. Underfunding your retirement to fund college often transfers a larger cost back to your child later.
College may not be the path
Apprenticeships, trades, and employer-funded routes exist. Money saved in a flexible way keeps those options open.

The numbers

Published tuition and fees

Varies enormously by sector: in-state public, out-of-state public, and private differ by multiples

Check the current edition rather than any figure quoted second-hand, including this page. The gap between sectors matters more than the national average.

Source: College Board

Published price versus net price

Net price is typically well below published price

Grant aid means many families pay substantially less than the advertised figure. Planning to the sticker price is a common and expensive mistake.

Source: College Board

A common planning split

About a third saved, a third from income, a third from aid or work

A rule of thumb rather than a researched standard, but it produces a target that is achievable instead of paralysing.

Effect of starting early

Fifteen years of growth versus two

The same monthly amount started at age three rather than sixteen produces a dramatically different total, because most of the growth happens in the later years of a long run.

Your options

Dedicated education account

Best for: Families confident that education spending will happen

Advantages

  • Tax advantages designed for this purpose
  • Kept separate, so it does not get spent on something else

Disadvantages

  • Rules on non-qualified withdrawals
  • Less flexible if your child takes a different path

Typical cost: Whatever you contribute, plus account fees

General investment or savings

Best for: Families who want flexibility about what the money funds

Advantages

  • Usable for a trade course, a deposit, or starting a business
  • No restrictions on purpose

Disadvantages

  • No education-specific tax advantage
  • Easier to spend on something else

Typical cost: Whatever you contribute

Fund from income at the time

Best for: Families whose income will be higher, and costs lower, by then

Advantages

  • No money locked away for fifteen years
  • Childcare costs will have ended by then, freeing room

Disadvantages

  • No compounding at all
  • Assumes an income that may not arrive
  • Concentrates the cost into exactly four expensive years

Typical cost: Higher total outlay

A deliberate partial contribution

Best for: Most families, honestly

Advantages

  • Achievable, so it actually happens
  • Leaves your retirement intact
  • Gives your child a stake in the decision

Disadvantages

  • Requires an honest conversation earlier than most families have it

Typical cost: Whatever you decide, decided in advance

Your action plan

This week

  1. Decide the share you intend to cover and write it down as a percentage.
  2. Check you are contributing enough to any employer retirement match first.
  3. Look up the net price, not the published price, for one in-state public and one private option.
  4. Set up a small automatic monthly contribution, even if the amount feels trivial.

Next month

  1. Increase the contribution by a small fixed amount and leave it alone.
  2. Compare a dedicated education account against a flexible one for your situation.
  3. If your child is over 13, tell them what you intend to fund. Expectations set late are much harder.

Watch for

  • Planning against published prices rather than net prices.
  • Reducing retirement contributions to fund college.
  • Waiting until you can afford a meaningful amount, which wastes the years that do the most work.
  • Assuming college is the only path worth funding.

Common questions

When should we start?

As early as you can manage anything at all. The amount matters much less than the number of years it has to grow.

Should we cover the whole cost?

That is a values decision, not a financial one, but it should not come at the expense of your retirement. A stated partial contribution is more useful to your child than an unstated intention to cover everything.

What if my child does not go to college?

Then a flexible account is worth more than a dedicated one. If you are genuinely unsure, that uncertainty is itself an argument for flexibility.

Where these numbers come from

Ready to plan the whole handover?

You now know what to do. This is for actually running it.

A year-by-year roadmap of the skills, money habits and decisions that need to be in place before your child turns eighteen.

Prepare for independence.

The Road to 18

Prepare your child for adulthood before they need to be independent.

Recommended here because you are working on college.

The problem
Your child is growing up, and it is genuinely hard to tell whether you are preparing them for independence or just getting through each year.
Best for
Ages 10 to 18
What it covers In development